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NYC’s first USDA-certified organic eatery lavished the bulk of its attention on its green operation (wind energy, recycled-paper menus, takeout forks fashioned from corn); sadly, the food has gone overlooked. A brittle Margherita pizza starter was topped with ketchup-sweet tomato sauce and gluey mozzarella, and an entrée of pricey filet mignon was charred beyond our order of medium-rare. Desserts—like a freezer-burnt dulce de leche ice cream—did little to save the meal. Safeguarding the earth shouldn’t mean sacrificing our taste buds, should it?