Hell’s Kitchen

You might expect a Mexican place invoking hell in its name to deliver some strong heat, but the approach is more sophisticated here. Your introduction is a complimentary steaming crock of black beans, corn and cilantro drizzled with a creamy poblano sauce. It’s perfect as a dip for thin triangles of sweet corn bread. Plantain empanadas filled with goat cheese swim in a pool of tomato coulis. Entrées are sauced up too: Try the ancho-crusted tuna and yucca cake with smoky peanut sauce. Reservations are recommended; scoring a pretheater table without a wait is about as likely as hell freezing over. That may be moot, since at press time a move was being planned.