Getting to Hidden Leaf, by any other name, would be a little annoying. It does not have a Manhattan address in the sense that addresses on the island mostly follow common-sense formulas with accompanying intersections like, say, 33rd Street and 10th Avenue, which is an easier way to identify Hidden Leaf’s approximate coordinates than “75 Manhattan West Plaza,” its formal designation. Imagine trying that in a taxi.
This is not the restaurant’s fault. As the big malls more swankily referred to as “developments” keep gobbling up Midtown West, rebranding it this or that, we’re going to end up with more made-up destinations. I recently traveled to this one from another, through no fault of my own, at nearby Hudson Yards, which sent my map app into a minor spiral and created more confusion and wasted time than if the locations had just been normally numbered.
Hidden Leaf is the latest restaurant from successful Brooklyn restaurateur Josh Cohen, whose popular previous ventures include Chez Ma Tante and Lilia. It opened in July, cocooned by a concrete plaza bounded by 9th and 10th Avenues and 31st and 33rd Streets and obscured enough inside the Midnight Theatre performance venue to invite obvious jokes about its apt name. It is joined in the cloistered rectangle by a Whole Foods and a Peloton showroom. The view of both from some of the cozy, intimate booths that line the roomy space is in contrast to its pretty interior. Chef Chai Trivedi’s (Buddakan, Tamarind) menu is influenced by southern China, Laos, Myanmar, Thailand, and Vietnam to successful effect.
Beef for two has recently been in the news, as one famed NYC steakhouse lowered the price of its double porterhouse to $99 and, in a charmingly old-fashioned multimedia campaign, ribbed its contemporaries about their own higher prices. Hidden Leaf is not a steakhouse (it’s billed as “a shareable pan-Asian dining adventure”), but it serves a rather good 28-day dry-aged ribeye that is—and this almost never happens—actually big enough to split for $48. It would not be unexpected to see this explicitly advertised elsewhere for double the price. It's nicely buttery and appropriately funky but, crucially, that expected funk walks a line between subtle and truly pungent. It should please both those devoted and indifferent to the form. The broad appeal also speaks a bit to this part of town, and helps establish Hidden Leaf as an easy option for convenience-seekers (near some offices) and tourist-toting locals (near some sights).
The wok-fried lobster with XO butter, rice noodle salad and wild mushrooms ($54) is also decently-portioned, though easier to finish for one. Its meat has as fresh an aroma and near-sweetness as any, fun to free from its shell like always, and the accompanying fungi are outstanding: plump, substantial and slightly earthy, paired wonderfully here, and even worth a plate of their own.
Another seafood standout is listed among the starters, grilled halibut cha ca with turmeric and dill on a duo of skewers ($20). It’s light and flaky and laudably moist with a bit of zippy nước chấm. Rustic cumin lamb dumplings ($19) from the dim sum section are heartier with the punchy notes of their titular ingredients and suitable wrapper thickness. Wood ear mushrooms are also well-prepared with enjoyably chewy wok-roasted rice cakes coated in ginger-soy lime ($19) and grouped in the vegetable/tofu category.
“House classic” cocktails are mostly takes on standards. The Thimble Sipper (amchoor, Japanese whisky, bitters) supposedly “lifts the classic old fashioned,” but it turns out a little too sweet with less body and depth of flavor. A “szechuan spicy pineapple margarita” ($18) is fine, if apparently absent its stated fragrant numbing spices. Beer and wine are also available, as is a $7 carafe of sparkling water that’s unlimited, at least.
It can feel a little unsettling to enter these seemingly prefab pockets, but Hidden Leaf elevates this one, and it’s a good spot to keep in mind for the next time you find yourself in the area.
Vitals:
The Vibe: Stylish and a little sexy in spite of its concrete mall surroundings.
The Food: Billed as “a shareable pan-Asian dining adventure” with standout steak and wok-fried lobster with terrific mushrooms.
The Drinks: Cocktails, wine and beer.
Time Out Tip: Ignore the address. Approach from around 33rd Street and 10th Avenue and head toward the Midnight Theatre facade: Hidden Leaf is inside upstairs.
Hidden leaf is located at “75 Manhattan West Plaza.” It is open for lunch Monday-Friday from 11:30am to 3pm and dinner Monday-Saturday from 5pm to 11pm.
