Hill Country Chicken

Restaurants , Soul and southern American Midtown
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Hill Country Chicken
Double cherry with streusel topping at Hill Country Chicken

This disappointing cafeteria-style joint, from the team that helped usher in the city’s barbecue craze at Hill Country, puts a corporate spin on the fried chicken trend. Two types of bird are available: The crunchier version features skinless pieces in a brittle batter that falls off in shingles; the “Hill Country Classic” skin-on alternative—buttermilk-brined and simply dusted in flour—is a better bet. Still, neither variety, sitting idle under heat lamps, is a match for the top-shelf fried fowl available elsewhere, and the potluck sides (sticky corn salad and cheesy mashed fried potatoes) might just as well have been cooked by Betty Draper—after she’d fired the maid.

Venue name: Hill Country Chicken
Address: 1123 Broadway
New York
Cross street: at 25th St
Opening hours: Mon–Thu, Sun noon–10pm; Fri, Sat noon–11pm
Transport: Subway: N, R to 23rd St
Price: Average main course: $12. AmEx, Disc, MC, V
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