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If you prefer a mild melding of the four “Thai tastes”—sweet, salty, sour and spicy—nirvana, in this pleasant, bi-level space, lies in the artfully heaped curry with tofu and vegetables. Pet kaprow is a tower of crisp duck threaded with white onion, green peppers and brittle leaves of the sweet spice for which the place is named. Desserts are not a strength: Instead, finish your meal with a smooth, rich Thai iced tea—a sublime concoction of strong orange tea, rich cream and spoonfuls of sugar.
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