Il Postino

Delicate cut flowers on every table create an atmosphere of serenity at this tiny midtown eatery. The chef here clearly sees his Pan-Italian cuisine as an art form; that’s why the hushed, romantic room is a haven for tycoons and their out-of-town guests. Unless you’re with them, skip the $200-a-bottle wine list and get down to appetizers like paper-thin tuna carpaccio with capers. Pastas, such as mushroom ravioli in a savory porcino sauce, are aggressively salty but rich in flavor. The toque is a wizard with fresh fish and steaks, too; the veal chop is so big and juicy, it’s almost cartoonlike. If none of this appeals to you, then, as the waiter will inform you, the kitchen will make whatever you want.