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The warning is on the first page of the extensive wine list: There’s no Chianti or Barolo in the house, so don’t even ask. Why? “Because Chianti sucks,” says the bartender. If you enjoy wines from Southern Italy, however, take a seat: This wine-and-appetizer bar, run by the owners of nearby Max, carries hundreds of them, which you can pair with crostini, cheese-layered gratinatos, divine meat and cheese platters, and other rustic snacks. The cavelike room is cozy as all get-out; bring a date and settle in for the night.