Izakaya Ten (CLOSED)

It takes several dishes to make a meal at this slender, wood-paneled Japanese pub; fortunately, there are plenty of well-executed options to choose from. Skewers of medium-hot shishito peppers hit the right balance of crunch and chew, while tender sliced pork belly is bright with ginger. Winning tempura preparations include plump shrimp wrapped in shiso leaves and tako kara age—delicate deep-fried octopus sprinkled in green tea salt. The small plates are designed to go with sake, and the extensive list includes a flavor-matrix chart to help newbies navigate. We enjoyed the unpasteurized, full-bodied Kikusui Funaguchi.