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For the last decade, Jean-Claude Iacovelli’s eponymous bistro has delivered Paris-by-way-of-Soho with barely a nudge in price. The restaurant remains a solid bet for rustic French fare without pretense or planning (they take reservations, but mostly they aren’t necessary). Standards include sautéed sweetbreads with caramelized leeks, and bordelaise-sauced hanger steak with a decadent tower of gratin potatoes. Save room for the exceptional apple tarte Tatin.