The East Village’s first real destination sushi bar remains one of the top spots in the neighborhood for pristine raw fish—and, with tables lined up under a blonde wood cocoon, among the coziest. Over the years portions have grown, but the food remains as gorgeous as ever. A trio of tartares comes topped with three different caviars, a flaky wild salmon filet steamed in paper in sea-urchin sauce is unveiled at the table. The budget-minded will gravitate toward the oversized maki filled with intriguing combinations like seared red snapper, cucumber and shiso. The best deal on a sushi splurge is still the chef’s choice omakase, an ultra-generous platter of whatever’s freshest that day.
