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An unlikely set of elements—the owner is Lady Gaga's pops, Joe Germanotta; the toque is Oprah's former chef Art Smith; the location is on the Upper West Side—come together for this 70-seat Italian eatery. Don't expect any avant-garde fireworks reminiscent of Gaga's controversial performances. Both the decor (two working fireplaces in a landmark brownstone) and the fare (six-layer lasagna, Grandma Ronnie's meatballs) skew cozy and traditional.
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