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Joloff’s owner, Papa Diagne, who was born and raised in Dakar, hews to tradition when he cooks cheb, simmering root vegetables, and then meaty bluefish stuffed with a paste of garlic, chiles, and parsley, in a tomato-based broth. He uses this flavor-infused liquid to cook broken rice, which takes on a brilliant orange-red tint and becomes tremendously savory.