You’ve had it bland and you’ve had it spicy: Now, welcome to loud Thai. On Saturday nights, post-collegiate twentysomethings, drinks in hand, groove to a DJ spinning ’80s dance music. You half-expect someone to bust a move—until the fragrant aroma of tom yum soup hits you. Take a seat in the dimly lit, industrial-looking dining room, and start with greaseless fried calamari with an addictive sweet-and-spicy chili sauce, or the nicely zesty beef salad. Stick with a curry as your main. Like it fiery? Ask your server to turn up the heat a few notches. If he can hear you.