Review

Karazishi Botan

3 out of 5 stars
  • Restaurants
  • Carroll Gardens
  • price 2 of 4
  • Recommended
Julien Levy
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Time Out says

Karazishi Botan is a casual pocket ramen shop on Smith Street with a sense of humor and a ton of creativity. Helmed by Fumihiro “Foo” Kanegae (ex-Ramen master at Ippudo), KB calls its approach “New York–style” and means it: seasonal, nontraditional, with an attitude.

The room is a proper ramen-ya layout: a slim corridor with a counter and a few two-top tables. Larger groups, be forewarned: this may be better as a solo or date affair. Some light superhero theming throughout (repeated Venom posters, a Spider-Man action figure mid-climb up the wall) induced bemused smiles. Perennial fixture? Seasonal decor? Either way, it’s funny.

Drinks include Japanese beers, sake, wine, shochu, whiskey. There isn’t much of a bar, though seasonal frozen concoctions are available. There are a few oddities: the fizzy, jelly-ish IKEZO Peach or Yuzu are more dessert than drink, recalling those fruit gelatin cups. 

Service is friendly, patient—and though the menu asks you not to substitute, if you have dietary restrictions, staff will happily steer you through options. Still, the menu necessitates a careful read. Outside of classic tonkotsu, the bowls don’t necessarily default with standard inclusions (protein, egg, scallion, etc), so in most cases you must assemble a bowl à la carte. That works out fine if you’re prepared for it. And here’s where that close read comes in: Parmesan? A falafel ball? Garlic croutons? Prices run standard (around $20-$23/bowl), so why not take a chance?

As for ramen: the seasonal Chef’s Special Iron Men IV (dry-aged pork bone, chicken, and oxtail broth with a shellfish base) is flavorful and complex without being overly salty or mouth-coatingly rich. Confusingly, the toppings arrived on a separate plate that crowded the table. And during this visit, my noodles were, unfortunately, too soft–lacking that signature alkaline chew. But I tend to prefer my noodles hard-cooked (i.e., al dente) anyway, so next time I’ll specify. An off-menu bowl of vegan ramen was an absolute home run, sporting a big pile of chunky house-made miso so textured and umami-forward that the server had to reassure us: no, it was not actually ground pork. In a world of compromised vegetarian ramen, this stands out.

Appetizers are fun: hot, crispy/creamy, chewy “magic balls” (takoyaki); delicious marinated shishito peppers, which paired perfectly with an ice-cold Asahi. For a non-ramen main, the Botan Zangi karaage is a fried chicken sandwich that’s easy to love, crunchy and tasty. 

Karazishi Botan is a tidy, spirited spot for a casual weeknight dinner with a lot to offer. The place knows the rules but chooses to bend them, reflecting the Ramen master’s verve while catering to its Brooklyn clientele. With a healthy sprinkle of whimsy, an imaginative menu, and reasonable pricing, it invites multiple visits. Quirks mean you should devote a little attention to the menu and talk to your server if navigating dietary needs, but in the end, you’ll leave satisfied.

Details

Address
255 Smith St
New York
11231
Opening hours:
Mon–Thu 5:30–9pm; Fri 5:30–10pm; Sat noon–10pm; Sun noon–9pm
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