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French news plays on the TV while a constant stream of locals flows through this popular establishment in Little Senegal, collecting food to go. Regulars love the daily fish-and-rice meal known as thiebou diene. Usually lunch fare, it’s sometimes available for dinner if supplies last: You’ll get a pile of rice cooked in a tomato sauce topped with fish balls, vegetables and big chunks of flaky barracuda. Or try the rich yassa ginaar, chicken cooked so long in an intense lemon-and-onion sauce that it’s almost like confit.