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Review
This cozy spot is conveniently situated just steps from Central Park and the MoMA, which might also explain why there’s sometimes a line of sightseers waiting to warm up with a hot bowl of homemade broth topped with melty chashu or fat river shrimp, scallops and squid.
The vibe: Dark, warm and lit by lanterns, it feels like a hidden escape between the bustle of 6th and 7th Avenues. Since seating is limited, you might encounter a bit of a queue on a weekend; stick it out, since the line will move quickly.
The food: Go for the rich pork broth over the chicken, which ups the umami even further with chashu or seafood swimming at the top of the bowl. You can also get your bowl with a spicy, housemade paste that will warm you up from the inside out. Vegans can find a soy broth with a standout assortment of veggies including zucchini, pumpkin and mushroom, along with seared tofu for the protein you need to continue your shopping tour of Midtown.
The drink: Wind down with a “Meowjito” (rum, yuzu, lime, mint and bitters served in a cat mug), or wake up with a Ko Hip Poi made with cold brew and vodka and a Matcha Jo Dai with gin and the green stuff. Everything from the menu to the drinks is made to be photographed, especially the Kirei, made like a jello shot with sparkling jelly sake.
Time Out tip: Items on the menu are helpfully marked with levels of spice, so believe them when they say that two flames is satisfyingly spicy.
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