La Maison du Couscous (CLOSED)

This dive is low on pretense and high enough on flavor to draw Manhattan adventurers. Briwats, bite-size phyllo pastries stuffed with lamb, chicken or seafood, are sweet or savory marvels. Tagines, like lamb with prunes and almonds or chicken with lemon and carrots, would please a Casablancan. The namesake dish comes in many permutations, including lamb with vegetables, chicken with onions and raisins, and of course, couscous royale.