La Mangeoire

Parisian Johann Giraud has retained the menu’s classics, such as saffrony Provençale fish soup: a tomato-based, delicately cayenne-spiked broth crammed with monkfish, bass, snapper, fennel, leeks and onions. The honey-sweetened caramelized-onion tart is scented with thyme, oregano and rosemary. La Mangeoire’s steak au poivre—a seared aged sirloin coated with peppercorns and doused with a mellow cognac-and-cream sauce—is superb. Peasant bread arrives warm in a tin pail, and coffee is delivered with a pitcher of steamed milk.