Because veganism is almost always an ethical or moral choice, its fare is often amply spiced with condescension in that way gymgoers pepper chats with talk of “discipline.” Vegans are mindful about what they put in their bodies—aren’t you? How refreshing, then, that Ladybird serves what can only be called vegan drunk food: late-night breaded mac-and-cheese balls meant to be hand-dipped in excellent buffalo sauce or nondairy ranch dressing. Everyone deserves to embrace their sloppy, slurred side. Beyond late-night, the avocado plate—a textural and flavorful winner with seaweed, black garlic ponzu and fried avocado croquettes atop fanned raw avocado—is due beatification as the patron saint of conversion to veganism. Beware the heat from the spiced broccoli in the artichoke-chardonnay fondue platter!