This warm eatery in a charming townhouse on Restaurant Row specializes in the cuisine of Rome. The signature artichokes deep-fried in olive oil and garlic are a Roman-Jewish classic, and another regional favorite—delicate chicken-liver pâté on toast with a side of more artichokes—is even more fulfilling. The menu is packed with fish, meat and, of course, pasta; the fettuccine al ragù, house-made noodles in a veal sauce, is a standout. To finish, try the crispy, custardy napoleon.