Le Périgord

Waiters don tuxes, men wear jackets, meats are carved tableside, and desserts are wheeled about on a trolley. The whole experience at Le Périgord reflects reverence for tradition, with a few contemporary touches: Sweetbread salad is served with harissa; escargots are dressed up with hazelnut butter and chanterelles. Not to be missed: the classic Grand Marnier soufflé, which is whisked to the table hot and puffy from the oven. Thank heaven for time warps.