Exposed-brick walls, beamed ceilings and rough-hewn tables give Le Refuge the feel of a lovely old hideaway on some narrow Montmartre street. Noteworthy entrées include roasted stuffed quail with an earthy morel sauce, and an aromatic saffron- and Pernod-infused seafood bouillabaisse. Romantics can request a table in the back room, which is embellished with tapestries, a fireplace and leaded-glass windows, providing all the refuge that can be expected on the Upper East Side.