Le Singe Vert

It’s a bistro, all right: You’ll find rickety tables, a soundtrack of French torch songs and charmingly accented waiters at this Chelsea eatery. Well-executed classics include a tender skate wing sautéed in brown butter and scattered with capers, and toothsome steak frites, served with chive butter or pepper sauce. Garlicky escargots require all the bread you can get your hands on—frugal early birds anxious to taste them can swoop in for a $28.95 three-course prix fixe from 5:30 to 7pm.