Though Anthony Bourdain is just the “chef-at-large” at Les Halles these days, his meat-oriented philosophy still permeates the place, from the butcher shop inside the restaurant to steak knives that appear at every place setting. With classic French fare like steak tartare and crêpes suzette prepared tableside for a largely out-of-towner crowd, it’s practically a theme-park restaurant —the theme being simply that animals are delicious. Steaks, sausages, and chops done over a dozen different ways are solid, but the kitchen’s efforts lack a certain joie de vivre.
Les Halles (CLOSED)
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