The star of Levant in Astoria’s Little Egypt is feteer, the flaky, layered and laminated Egyptian pastry made from thin, ghee-brushed dough that’s baked until puffed and golden-brown, then served like slices of pie. The menu features savory versions filled with ground beef, sausage, or shawarma, plus sweet feteer layered with Nutella, nuts or creamy lotus spread. Each one is baked in a brick oven and arrives hot, crisp and almost too buttery—luckily, there’s no such thing.
The vibe: This casual counter-service setup on Steinway Street lets you see the dough being stretched, folded and baked. It’s bright, fast-paced and focused on the food, as it should be.
The food: The feteer lineup anchors the menu, where it’s joined by filling shawarma wraps, kebab platters, and open-faced pies topped with za’atar and cheese, spinach or minced meat. Desserts include kanafa, made with layers of sweet cheese and spun pastry dough, plus pabasbosa, a little semolina cake soaked with syrup.
The drinks: Try a refreshingly salty yogurt ayran drink or a bottle of Laziza, a non-alcoholic malt soda that’s made in Lebanon.
Time Out tip: Make your way to a seat where you can watch the dough being stretched and tossed before it hits the oven—it’s as much a performance as it is prep. Plus, you might get a little tete-a-tete with the chef, who runs restaurants and lounges all over the neighborhood.