Lima’s Taste (CLOSED)

There’s not much to recommend at this Peruvian addition to a gastronomically challenged West Village block. An offshoot of an East Village spot, the restaurant serves clunky home cooking in a baroque dining room where heavy wood chairs are oddly accented by a flat-screen TV. Painfully slow service adds nothing to dishes that taste like Incan fast food. Appetizers include a long list of ceviches, a Peruvian staple. But the portions here are too large, and those we tried left a funky aftertaste. Main courses fared no better. The escabeche chicken was a pounded breast cooked bone-dry and slathered in cloyingly sweet pepper-vinegar sauce. Sudado, made with a whole mystery fish-of-the-day, is a big tender mess that’s steamed in beer and then showered with tomatoes and onions. The chef seems to think that parsley, generously sprinkled, might save the food. He’s wrong.