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Restaurateur Hadi Alavian has given birth to his long-anticipated baby and he’s eager to please: Generous bowls of crunchy snacks are free for the taking at the small entryway bar, plates of warm pomodoro-basil spread arrive with the bread, and the staff is extra attentive. But his far-reaching Italian seafood menu isn’t always a success. While a divine seared-scallop appetizer was perfectly dressed with pureed cauliflower and truffle oil, and whole roasted branzino was tender and sweet, a Tuscan fish stew came with a thin tomato broth and a lobster ravioli special was tough and stingy on the lobster meat. Lisca will probably win fans anyway with its comfortable dining room and eager host: If you forget that it’s cash only, Alavian will suggest you bring in the money next time.
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