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A space as narrow as a pressed cubano doesn’t stifle owner Lydia Sharpe’s passion for Cuban cooking. The most cursory knowledge of the cuisine on your part will melt her stern exterior—if you want her to get downright motherly, order the insider favorite moros y cristianos. This side dish of black beans cooked in white rice has fragrant cinnamon and smoky pork nuances, adding sparkle to entrées such as a plump fillet of roasted salmon or pork medallions with a tart tomatillo sauce. The place may be small, but the flavors have soaring dimensions.
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