If you can ignore the look—a classier Applebee’s—you’ll find a personable neighborhood eatery offering some of the borough’s best seafood. The service is friendly, the portions generous. Whet your appetite with steamers or mussels—or choose savory steamed-crab dumplings, which come in a bamboo basket with a dipping sauce and chopsticks. Lobsters can be steamed, broiled or stuffed; a list of specials reflects the day’s catch.