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We were having a quiet evening at a buzzing Soho bistro, when suddenly, the lights flicked off, Arabic tunes started blasting, and a talented tummy-twister began snaking her way between the tables. It was funny, and it was fun…until it happened again, and again. Appetizers weren’t worth the wait: bland, greasy duck rolls; grilled shrimp covered in enough salt to pickle your tongue. Entrées, such the rich, slow-cooked tagines and seared yellowfin tuna in a zesty, lemony red-onion compote, fared better. If you’re hankering for a North African hoedown where fun matters more than food, you can find it here.