Lotus of Siam (CLOSED)

New Yorkers love Thai food, but the neutered pad si-ewe we scarf from a carton has nothing in common with the vibrant plates at this pedigreed Vegas import. The menu homes in on the cuisine of northern Thailand, delivering knockouts like an artfully balanced minced-pork larb salad, packed with lemongrass, scallions, green chilies and lime. Other dishes were equally nuanced. A funky crispy-rice and Thai-sausage starter had a fiery kick with bright peanuts and ginger creeping in underneath, while a silky green curry was elevated by kafir lime and cilantro. Caveat emptor: While the menu remains intact, the departure of the Chutima family (which runs the Vegas original) makes us wonder if the restaurant's best days might be behind it.