L’Ulivo (CLOSED)

Simple, straightforward fare reigns at this unpretentious Soho trattoria. The carciofi alla giudia, a Roman-Jewish dish of artichokes fried in olive oil, is done particularly well. Ditto the thin-crust pizzas—the pristine Margherita arrives crisp and charred, topped with just enough elastic mozzarella and a tomato sauce enlivened with garlic and basil. Forgo the basic desserts for another round of bruschette: The garlicky crusts of bread can be topped with a briny trio of chopped Sicilian olive varieties.