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The dishes at this restaurant on the edge of Little Egypt are varied, but the best hailed from Mexico. An unusual fried-avocado appetizer featured warm green halves oozing a gooey stuffing of shrimp and Oaxacan string cheese. But an appetizer of ceviche underwhelmed, offering chunks of firm tilapia, shrimp and onions that, despite a lime juice marinade, still lacked punch. Entrées were equally bland. Though tender, a tequila-accented shrimp-and-steak platter was blah surf-and-turf. And chiles rellenos suffered from a chewy tangle of shrimp and squid stuffing. Though Steinway Street could benefit from improved dining options, this isn’t it.
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