Lundy Bros. (CLOSED)

Founded in 1916, closed in 1979 and reopened in its landmark space in 1995, Lundy isn’t what it was in the glory days—a must-visit that could feed 2,800 people at once—but it’s still a great place to stuff yourself silly with shellfish. (Folks here claim Lundy invented the lobster bib.) Like the decor, the menu remains old-school, though you can find vegan risotto-and-saffron cakes. Start with a few baking-powder biscuits and the rich lobster bisque. Then pick out a lobster from the aquarium and have it prepared one of six ways. Other fish specials are delicious (and large). Desserts are big too, and messy—save your bib for the chocolate lava cake. Both the food and the local-heavy clientele are a welcome reprieve from Manhattan snootiness.