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Photograph: Lizz KuehlCaviar, whipped butter and flowers on rye at M. Wells Dinette
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Photograph: Lizz KuehlEscargot-and-marrow tart at M. Wells Dinette
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Photograph: Lizz KuehlEgg flan and foie at M. Wells Dinette

M. Wells Dinette: The Feed first look

The husband-and-wife team behind the critically adored Queens diner M. Wells returns to the stove in a museum cafeteria at MoMA PS1.

By Christopher Ross

M. Wells, the irreverent Queens diner that closed in August 2011, was roundly cheered by the city’s critics for playing with its food: foie gras on meatloaf, tripe cut in the shape of noodles. So it’s fitting that the owners, husband-and-wife team Hugue Dufour and Sarah Obraitis, are resurrecting their brand in a former elementary-school space at MoMA PS1, opening September 27th. At this museum cafeteria, Dufour will put his trademark cockeyed spin on Asian plates—bibimbap with maple syrup and oysters—as well as classic French dishes. Look for the rich escargot-and-marrow tart sprinkled with parsley leaves; mini-sandwiches spread with whipped butter and topped with caviar and edible, colorful flowers; and foie gras served in a soft egg flan. In a nod to the space’s educational past, the menu is scrawled on a blackboard and school-desk-styled communal tables are filled with pencils and playing cards. 22-25 Jackson Ave at 46th Ave, Long Island City, Queens (718-786-1800)


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