Manetta’s Ristorante

This terra-cotta-tiled trattoria is tended by members of the Manetta clan—the kitchen, which turns out homestyle Pan-Italian eats, is capably supervised by matriarch Filomena. Her wood-burning brick oven produces marvelous crisp-crusted pizzas with toppings like spicy cacciatorini sausage, porcini mushrooms and house-made pesto. The pasta is a triumph: Linguine with four cheeses drips with lush Gorgonzola, mozzarella, fontina and Parmesan—ideal for pre-P.S.1 carbo-loading.