Manon (CLOSED)

Moscow megarestaurateur Andrey Dellos—of the short-lived glitzy flop Brasserie Pushkin—gives the New York dining scene another shot with this 5,800-square-foot American behemoth in the Meatpacking District. Named after Jules Massenet's opera, the three-story space features a bar-lounge on the street level, a mezzanine on the second floor and a main dining room on the third. The 180-seat brick-and-barnwood restaurant—punctuated with Baroque flourishes like suspended ceilings and a three-story venetian mirror—is helmed by chef Tae Strain of Baltimore's Demi. The toque dishes out American fare with cross-cultural accents: Chatham cod with kohlrabi and bonito; Denver lamb loin served alongside maitake mushrooms and black garlic; and Berkshire pork chops accompanied by savoy cabbage and gochujang (Korean fermented chili paste). The bar program, overseen by Eleven Madison Park alum Aaron Polsky, mirrors the menu's global touches, infusing quaffs with dashes of kafir lime, star anise and bergamot zest.