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Light Southern food might seem an oxymoron, but not at Mara’s Homemade. The tiny, brightly hued East Village eatery, whose walls are covered with photos of New Orleans’ musicians, serves a seafood-oriented menu of Cajun specialties and barbecue. Owner Mara Levi and her husband David are here nightly waiting tables; food is prepared carefully to order and takes time to arrive. An artichoke, boiled in a seriously hot spice mixture, arrives with a side of creamy rémoulade. A delicate fillet of catfish, fried till crisp, comes with a side of smoky mashed potatoes. Everything pairs well with one of the eight Abita beers offered, and a slice of moist red velvet cake is a fitting send-off note.
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