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Chef Marc Forgione embraces his fate as the godson of American cooking (his father is local-foods champion Larry Forgione) at this homegrown eatery framed by brick walls and rustic cedar. Though the fare is inconsistent, the junior Forgione ekes out some successes. Halibut was anointed with an emulsion of tomato broth and lemon oil (think liquid gazpacho), and a juicy rib eye with chimichurri sauce, marrow, fried onions and hash browns was superb, if made too precious with a side of boutique salts. Forgione isn’t trying to escape his father’s shadow; his work-in-progress restaurant indicates that he’s running toward it.
134 Reade St
|Cross street:||between Greenwich and Hudson Sts|
|Transport:||Subway: A, C, E, 1, 2, 3 to Chambers St|
|Price:||Average main course: $28. AmEx, Disc, MC, V|
|Opening hours:||Mon–Sat 5–11pm|
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