Marco Polo

Carroll Gardens’ 25-year-old mobbed-up red-sauce joint keeps it real while nearby Smith Street continues to accumulate upmarket restaurants and lounges. The frosted-glass accents, Venetian mural and old-world service feel a bit dated, but it’s all part of Polo’s charm. You’ll find hearty Northern and Southern Italian dishes like red-wine fettuccine with grated Parmesan, a house specialty, and juicy sirloin steaks sautéed in a tangy balsamic- and butter-sauce. Desserts skew traditional: Order the chunky ricotta cheesecake and keep an eye on your kneecaps.