Danny Meyer's getting into the pizza game—the restaurant mogul (Union Square Cafe, Shake Shack) has teamed with his Maialino chef Nick Anderer for this rustic Roman pizzeria inside the Martha Washington Hotel. A self-proclaimed Rome fanatic, Anderer fell in love with the capital city's thin, crackly-crusted rounds, which he pulls from two wood-burning ovens and a nine-foot-long over-embers grill. “It’s so light that the pizza becomes part of the meal rather than the entire meal itself,” he says. “The dough is a blank canvas for seasonal flavors.” Along with the traditional pies (Margherita, Napoletana), the toque turns out outré renditions like an okra-and-lamb-sausage number and one with pecorino, crumbled potato and crispy guanciale. The two-level restaurant, which features a mezzanine with bird’s-eye views of the main dining room below, is anchored by an open kitchen slinging more than just pizza: Expect rabbit meatballs, beer-brined chicken and butterflied trout saltimbocca presented on hand-painted ceramic dishes and custom-made butcher blocks.
The Redbury Hotel
29 E 29th St
|Cross street:||between Madison Ave and Park Ave South|
|Opening hours:||Mon–Fri noon–11:30pm; Sat–Sun 11:30am–11:30pm|
|Transport:||Subway: N, R to 28th St; 6 to 28th St|
|Price:||Average entrée: $23. AmEx, DC, Disc, MC, V|
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Average User Rating
3.8 / 5
- 5 star:1
- 4 star:2
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Disclaimer: I have high standards when it comes to Italian food. Although the appetizers and the pizza that I had were acceptable, I have to say the food was a bit boring. I was expecting more creative takes on old classics and ended up with decent, traditional dishes. Bonus points: The space is stunning.
I had no idea this was one of Danny Meyer's restaurants, or my expectations would have been higher. However, I was impressed and pleased anyway, so Mr. Meyer should be proud. Marta is housed in a beautiful, large, see-and-be-seen room on the ground floor of the fabled and newly remodeled Martha Washington Hotel in the Flatiron District. The menu is predominantly individual brick-oven pizza, both red and white versions, and there are also entrees in the northern Italian tradition. The Pancetta e Fagiolli (ham and beans) appetizer had a rich, smoky flavor that reminded me of the wild boar I'd had in Tuscany years ago. The pizza crusts are light and crisp, and all the ingredients are top shelf, but they were a bit oversalted. There's also a great wine selection. A large, Friday night birthday party is probably not the best scenario in which to judge the wait staff, but the service was not overly attentive. I don't doubt smaller parties get excellent service. The prices were high, but not out of line with other upscale NYC eateries.