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The din here makes conversation a lot like shouting over the rest of the family at Thanksgiving, but the cramped, homey quarters also let you scrutinize everyone’s food without looking nosy. Classic pasta and seafood dishes draw a constant stream of diners, but don’t neglect the tantalizing antipasti, including fresh buffalo mozzarella over wedges of blood-red tomatoes. Choose from a tongue-knotting array of pasta plates (the raviolis are especially good), and watch the steam rise to a ceiling painted with blue sky and clouds. Or share one of the creative thin-crust pizzas, which will leave room for cookies and tiramisu.
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