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It’s fitting that an eatery whose name means “noon” should sport sunny, canary-colored walls and doors that swing open in fine midday weather. Florentine cuisine triumphs at this spot, especially sautéed calamari with silky avocado, tomato, red pepper, and a touch of lemon and olive oil. Chilly beef carpaccio comes strewn with slivers of Parmesan and artichoke hearts, and vanilla-tinged crema gratinata (an Italian crème brûlée) is a favorite.
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