This Japanese spot could sail by on looks alone—it’s an airy space with pinewood-paneled walls—and the food’s not bad either. Impeccably fresh fish, like silky toro, practically melts on the tongue. Standard shumai is gussied up with strawlike noodles that wrap around each dumpling like rubber bands. The specialty rolls are, well, special: Spicy tuna is topped with flamed yellowtail and almonds; another roll marries jalapeño, salmon, tuna, cucumber and scallop tartare.
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