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Mu Ramen

  • Restaurants
  • Long Island City
  • price 2 of 4
  • 4 out of 5 stars
  • Recommended
  1. MU RAMEN interior
    Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz
  2. Mu Ramen
    Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz
  3. MU RAMEN mu ramen
    Photograph: Paul Wagtouicz
  4. Mu Ramen
    Photograph: Paul WagtouiczMu Ramen
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Time Out Says

4 out of 5 stars

Mu Ramen, the noodle insta-hit from husband-and-wife team Joshua and Heidy Smookler, is a warmly lit, brick-walled room with a scant 22 seats. But it’s an upgrade from the couple’s pop-up days, when they doled steaming bowls out of a nearby bagel shop.

The best seats in the house are at the bar overlooking the open kitchen, where the chefs operate with sushi-bar intimacy, cracking jokes while pulling golden-crisp chicken from the fryer and shaking pots of just-boiled noodles as easily as tumbler-happy bartenders.

Those strands are delicate but with an al dente spring, and there's a different variety showcased in each bowl. Most notable, though, is the flagship ramen. Built on a broth of oxtail and bone marrow, the house bowl gets some extra-meaty oomph from melting cubes of brisket, which, paired with shredded cabbage and half-sour pickles, toes Jewish deli-novelty without succumbing to kitsch. 

The chefs’ careful hands extend to non-noodle plates like the U&I. “Get everything in one go,” a sous chef instructs, and he’s right: A chopstick of warm rice spackled with butter-soft uni, briny, bursting salmon roe and luscious spicy maguro is a supremely composed bite.

Then there’s the tebasaki gyoza, a deboned chicken wing crammed dumpling-style with creamy foie gras, soft brioche and quince compote. It’s a salty-sweet, creamy-crispy food anomaly that alone is worth the trip.

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Written by
Christina Izzo

Details

Address:
12-09 Jackson Ave
NY
11101
Cross street:
between 47th Rd and 48th Ave
Transport:
Subway: G to 21st St, 7 to Vernon Blvd–Jackson Ave
Price:
Average ramen: $18. Cash only.
Opening hours:
Mon–Thu, Sun 5–10pm; Fri, Sat 5–10:30pm
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