Nana

Five years since this perpetually popular Pan-Asian destination opened, and swank decor continues to outmuscle even the slightest hint of on-palette heat. Those giant parrot fish, canoodling in a storefront tank, sure are hypnotizing, as is the general clubby air—all the better to distract you from bland sushi (an “illusion” roll stuffed with tuna, avocado and salmon, and topped with unspicy spicy lobster, was aptly named) and a one-spice kitchen churning out oversalted eggplant and negi hamachi. You do feel like a Bond villain when the lighting is dimmed and the trip-hop music pumped. If the goal is unremarkable energy food en route to more clubbing, Nana makes a good wingman, nothing more or less.