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Tender kalbi (barbecued short ribs) are indeed the stars here; their signature smoky flavor comes from being cooked over soot bul (wood chips). The city’s oldest Korean restaurant also makes crisp, seafood-laden haemool pajun (pancakes); sweet, juicy yuk hwe (raw beef salad); and garlicky bulgogi. Kom tang, or “bear soup,” is a milky beef broth that’s deep and soothing.