Nice Matin

The most upscale addition to Simon Oren’s growing roster of regional French bistros (Pigalle, among others), Nice Matin draws mature locals seeking a nonchallenging night out. Chef Andy D’Amico’s southern French fare isn’t particularly inventive, but it’s tasty and well executed. Tender beef short ribs are nestled in creamy celery-root puree surrounded by a rich red-wine reduction, while grilled sweetbreads are swathed in fragrant rosemary aïoli. The generous slice of caramel-drizzled tarte Tatin is properly flaky. The optical-illusion wallpaper and carousel-top columns make for date-friendly surroundings. If only the waitstaff’s attention didn’t wander.