Nippon

Nippon sticks with tradition: Since 1963, the gliding waitresses have worn kimonos and private tatami rooms are available. The menu, too, offers classic fare such as sashimi, tempura, sukiyaki, shabu-shabu and yakitori, each solidly presented. And to offer traditional putterfish, owner Nobuyoshi Kuraoka was instrumental in persuading the FDA to allow the import of the species, which has toxic organs and must be prepared by specially trained chefs. Nippon’s real specialty is a multicourse fugu meal (tora fugu is the Japanese name for puffer fish), available from November to February for $200.