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A pizza place isn’t superfluous if the pies are good. No. 28 justifies its existence with above-par pies—plus oversize arugula-and-Parmesan salads and a few old-fashioned pasta dishes. Crisp, superthin pizzas layered with pear, gorgonzola, walnuts, prosciutto and other topping combinations emerge from the brick oven in 12-inch rounds and 29-inch-long oblongs. Also forged in that oven: freshly baked, olive-oil-doused bread free for the taking upon arrival.